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Author Topic: Cored pipes  (Read 16989 times)
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DucLeone
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« on: November 03, 2007, 05:26:10 PM »

i finally broke down got me a dremel,
some extra cutoff wheels and went to town.
Got one of them done it took me about two hours,
since i didn't know what to expect i took my time.
Put it on back the bike and WOW
what a difference already just with one of them
can't wait to do the second one ,shouldn't take me that long
since i know now how they are built.
i will try to take some pictures during the coring of the second one
and will post them here.
and for now $60 for a dremel beats $1500 for a system

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BryanS
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« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2007, 08:48:50 PM »

That's great!  If you do take pics be sure to post up how you did it.  It will make a good reference for other members!
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Uncle Mofo
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« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2007, 08:52:52 PM »

Good job Oni! Now find a used spareshak or spark header, the get rid of the cat. It will really open the sound up.   
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« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2007, 09:06:16 PM »

I'll do a write up on mine too since the cans I have are made a little different.
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sTD
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« Reply #4 on: November 04, 2007, 06:18:15 AM »

When (not if) the racket gets to you, give BCM a call.  They sell complete core kits for like $120/pair that include the perf tube and rings to make your stock pipes into slipons.

www.bcmducati.com

Kevin, are you listening..... or can't you hear anymore
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DucLeone
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« Reply #5 on: November 04, 2007, 04:00:40 PM »


locate the two welds inside the small pipe use a dremel to cut them out


with a little force pull out the section you just cut off


at this point you will see the two brackets that hold the can and the endcap together
separate at the weld and cap will come right off


cap off


slide aluminium can off the actual can ( so you dont end up destroying it )


cut the end of the can along the pipe and along the inner side of the can
(pipe is still long on the inside)


now cut the pipe (i did through the inside with a dremel cut off wheel )
 

slide alu can back over the whole thing insert end cap make sure its sitting tight
drill some holes and i used selftapping screws (rivet are an option)
install back on bike and give it a wrrroooammmm!!!!!!

« Last Edit: November 04, 2007, 04:14:07 PM by DucLeone » Logged

MotoPsycho
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« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2007, 03:28:06 AM »

wow, good writeup Oni. I never seen the inside of those pipes before, didn't know they were made like that. Mine are a LOT different.
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DucLeone
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« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2007, 03:33:54 AM »

yours are like this ?
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screaminss
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« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2007, 02:28:48 PM »

wow, good writeup Oni. I never seen the inside of those pipes before, didn't know they were made like that. Mine are a LOT different.
mine too
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screaminss
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« Reply #9 on: November 05, 2007, 02:32:54 PM »

When (not if) the racket gets to you, give BCM a call.  They sell complete core kits for like $120/pair that include the perf tube and rings to make your stock pipes into slipons.

www.bcmducati.com

Kevin, are you listening..... or can't you hear anymore
Mine have perforated tubes.

 I slid a piece of solid tube over them, to give it a little better growl. 
« Last Edit: November 05, 2007, 02:38:08 PM by screaminss » Logged

2000 SS900
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« Reply #10 on: November 05, 2007, 03:49:31 PM »

Mine have perforated tubes.

 I slid a piece of solid tube over them, to give it a little better growl. 



Yeah, Kevin, I remember when you revved it in front of that cafe' in Bloomington.
I thought those people were gonna run for cover!!   

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DucLeone
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« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2008, 01:46:49 PM »

found the perforated baffles today and ordered them
http://www.aandrmotorsport.com
i contacted them with my dimensions

stage 2 is on
« Last Edit: January 04, 2008, 11:01:06 AM by DucLeone » Logged

BryanS
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« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2008, 01:59:49 PM »

Where from and how much?
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DucLeone
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« Reply #13 on: January 03, 2008, 02:17:55 PM »

65 bucks with the packing material
link to seller in previous post
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MotoPsycho
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« Reply #14 on: January 03, 2008, 04:32:50 PM »

since we're talking cored pipes, I'd like to drill some larger holes in my baffle plates. what do you call the type of drill bit that is longer than 8-10" ? would that be a gun drill ? hell, I'd use a damn masonry bit if I knew it would work.
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« Reply #15 on: January 03, 2008, 04:38:05 PM »

We always called the long ones"long boy" bits.  I've also heard them called "jobber length" bits. Dunno if there's a real name for them .....
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« Reply #16 on: January 03, 2008, 04:42:46 PM »

I know jobber bits are a touch longer, maybe by 2 inches but I mean like the really long ones, like the kind you'd drill out the middle of a solid wood lamp in shop class
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